Located 20 kilometers from the town of Denizli, Pamukkale is one of the
most interesting places in the world, justly famous not only for the
entrancing beauty of its unique geological formations but also for its
historical remains. The calcium oxide-rich waters flowing down the
southern slope of Caldag located north of the ruins have, over the
millennia, built up deposits of white travertine on the plateau thus fully
justifying both the site's ancient name of Hierapolis-Holy City-and its
modern one of Pamukkale-Cotton Castle. -Let us now take a tour of this
supernal spot.
Ancient Hierapolis appears to have been founded by King Eumenes II of Pergamon
and its name is derived from Hiera, the wife of King Telephos, the
legendary founder of Pergamon. The city became subject to Rome
in 133 B.C. In 17 B.C. during the reign of Tiberius it suffered a heavy
earthquake that substantially destroyed the city, requiring it to be
rebuilt.
Preliminary excavations at Hierapolis were undertaken by a German team
towards the end of the last century. Since 1957, excavation and
restoration work has been going on under the direction of an Italian group
of archaeologists.
The ancient city was strung out on either side of a long colonnaded
street called the Plateia. Measuring 13 meters in width, this street ran
north and south from the southern gateway to the Arch of Domitian in the
north. It is paved with huge blocks of limestone. The first structure one
encounters on reaching the plateau is the city baths, which are in a very
good state of preservation. The baths are Roman and
from the 2nd century A.D. In the eastern part of the baths is a palaestra
measuring 36.13 by 52.25 meters. Immediately to the north and south of the
palaestra are two big rooms that were reserved for the emperor and
ceremonial use. A large hall stretches the length of the western side of
the palaestra and this was the gymnasium used by athletes. This salon led
into the frigidarium from which one proceeded to the barrel-vaulted rooms
of the caldarium. A small room adjacent to the large hall now serves as a
museum in which works discovered in the Hierapolis excavations are on
display. Since Hierapolis was principally a luxury resort town it was
richly adorned with magnificent sculptures showing the influence of the
Aphrodisias (q.v.) school and is well worth a visit.
The well preserved theater of Hierapolis commands magnificent view of
the plain below. The original theater was located above the northern gate,
but when the city was rebuilt during the reign of the Flavian emperors (60
A.D.) the theater was relocated here, and the seats from the old structure
were used in the work.
During the reign of Septimius Severus (193-211 A.D.) the theater's
skene was modified and richly decorated with reliefs. In 532 it was
discovered that the sekene had been weakened by age and the almost daily
seismic activity that takes place here and had to be reinforced. Since the
theater has been restored, it is now possible to see the friezes of
mythological scenes depicting Apollo and Artemis in their original
positions. Thirty rows of the seats of this theater resting against the
slope have survived. Originally there were 20 rows in the lower part and
25 in the upper separated by a diazoma. The cavea was divided by eight
aisles.
Passing through the city walls above the theater we proceed to the
Martyrion of St Philip. This is an octagonal building erected on a square
measuring 20 by 20 meters. It was built in the early 5th century. Even in
its present state of ruin it is an impressive structure. Retracing our
footsteps to the theater we may now examine the ruins below the theater.
Near the road is the Temple of Apollo, the principal deity of the city.
While the foundations of this temple go back to late Hellenistic
times, the present remains of the upper structure are from the 3rd century
A.D. Next to it is a cave (called the Plutonion) from which poisonous
gases emerge. (According to Strabo, an ox thrust into this cave would keel
over and die. He himself experimented with doves.) The temple measures 20
by 15 meters and sat on a platform that was 2.5 meters high. Before the
temple is a monumental fountain. Built during the late 3rd century A.D.,
the walls of this rectangular fountain are very well preserved. There was
also a pool located before the fountain and the structure was richly
adorned with statues and columns. The water for this fountain was brought
here by aqueducts, remains of which may be seen in the vicinity of
Guzelpinar and between Pamukkale and Karahayit. East of the present
museum is a Christian basilica consisting of a nave and two aisles. It
dates from the 6th century A.D. Walking along the route of the Plateia
(which now passes through the modern swimming pool and motel) reminds us
that this main street dividing the ancient city was once decorated with
colonnades, porticos, and important buildings located on either side. The
street runs directly toward the city walls passing through a gateway built
in Byzantine times atop an earlier fountain. On
the way is a basilical structure with two aisles and a nave whose eastern
end terminates in an apse. The city walls were built in 396 A.D. and were
reinforced by twenty-eight towers. Passing through Byzantine gate we come
to a rather well preserved section of the Plateia. This part was built
during the reign of Domitian (81-96 A.D.) and terminates with the Arch of
Domitian. This monumental gateway was actually erected by Julius
Frontinus, who was proconsul of the Roman province
of Asia (middle western Anatolia) in 82 and 83 A.D., and dedicated to the
emperor. The gate has two round towers and three portals. Excavations are
now in progress to reveal the remains of shops and houses that once lined
both sides of this street.
Northeast of the street between the Byzantine
and Domitian gates was the agora of ancient Hierapolis. The traces of the
city's original theater may be seen above. As we follow the road in the
direction of the necropolis we pass by the imposing walls of a building
originally erected as baths around the end of the 2nd century A.D. It was
converted to a church in the 5th century. The huge necropolis of
Hierapolis spreads out on either side of the road for a distance of two
kilometers. It contains tumuli, sarcophagi, and house-shaped tombs that
range in date from the late Hellenistic period to
early Christian times. It is one of the most extensive and best preserved
ancient cemeteries in Anatolia and a stroll through it leaves a deep and
mystical impression upon the visitor, particularly on a moonlit night. The
road proceeds on to the hot springs of Karahayit located 4 kilometers
away.